Venice – Day Twenty Seven

Friday September 27 – this was a BIG day.

Piazza San Marco

We were really fortunate to find our accommodation in Venice itself, as itโ€™s basically choose either massively expensive five star hotels, or well quite um rudimentary. The benefit of staying on the island is it meant we were able get out before the mass of humanity arrives. Venice for a short period before around 10am feels a bit like a normal place, people doing their usual routine, old ladies nattering, parents dragging their children to school, that sort of thing.

We made the most of this brief window and headed to Piazza San Marco.

Early morning rush hour
Rialto Bridge sans people.
Looking at this actually makes me hungry. This was on the way from Rialto Bridge to St Markโ€™s.
St Marks Square, the Campanile or bell tower is centre. The raised walkway is for the high tides, thereโ€™s also a clear glass barrier so it doesnโ€™t flood the basilica. The bell tower collapsed in 1902 and was rebuilt in 1912, no one died apart from one moggy.
The Four Tetrarchs – dates to 300AD & the Venetians nicked it when they sacked Constantinople. Itโ€™s of the four Roman Emperors who ruled over the two halves of the empire. We were lucky to see it without any tourists around.
The Columns of St Mark and St St Theodore, the patron saints of Venice.
Doge-y. Sorry for the terrible pun, the Dogeโ€™s Palace, which dates to 1340.
Gondolas and the Church of St Giorgio Maggiore.
St Markโ€™s Basilica. When we were there it was nearly high tide; water literally was coming up through the stormwater grates flooding the square. St Markโ€™s Square is the lowest lying part of Venice being only 64cm above sea level.
Whoโ€™s got a new favourite store?
View from the Marciana Library.
Us at the Bridge of Sighs. It runs from the Dogeโ€™s Palace to the prison on the right. Apparently named as prisoners sighed while heading to a probably less than pleasant experience. Pretty though.
The parking at the back of St Markโ€™s is atrocious.

Scuola Vecchia Della Misericordia / Old School of Mercy

By the time we left St Markโ€™s it was getting pretty hectic, so when we next ventured out, we decided to go through some of the back streets/canals. We stumbled across the Scuola, which had been a charity building and now an art gallery that was showing work that was part of the Venice Art Biennale.

The exhibition was of the work of Zeng Fanzhi. The exhibition was designed by the renowned Japanese architect Tadao Ando.

Rialto Bridge

After leaving the exhibition we headed back to the Rialto Bridge.

The ambulances are slightly different in Venice.
Classic Venice
The Rialto Bridge had got slightly busier.
The view from the Rialto bridge up the Grand Canal.

Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore

From the Rialto Bridge we headed back to St Markโ€™s Square to catch the ferry to the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore to see Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore. It is a renaissance church and was built in 1610 and was designed by the architect Andrea Palladio, who is kinda a big deal for architects.

View from the ferry, the church on the right is Santa Maria Della Pieta.
The Dogeโ€™s Palace and the Campanile.
I was somehow able to take this while bobbing along in the ferry to San Giorgio Maggiore.
Renaissance architecture was big on copying Roman temples, but churches donโ€™t have the same dimensions. Palladioโ€™s solution was to slap two different types together, if you look thereโ€™s two overlapping trianglar temple front bits, or pediments if youโ€™re feeling classy. Bosh job done.
The interior isnโ€™t highly decorated, which was a break from earlier churches. The church was displaying contemporary art as part of the Biennale.
Not a bad view from the front door

Olivetti

Okay I totally geeked out here. I wasnโ€™t quite all teenage girl screaming at some pop star, but I was pretty close. Apologies for the grossly gendered stereotype by the way. Carlo Scapa is one of those architectsโ€™ architect. Olivetti were a high end typewriter company based out of Venice. They hired Scarpa to design the showroom. It was ridiculously well detailed.

The Olivetti showroom was built in 1957, which was older than I had realised.
How good are those stairs. Nice typewriter.

Fondazione Querini Stampala

After spending ten euros each to walk around frankly a rather small typewriter salesroom. Marnie initially decided to skip the Foundation and chill in the square outside, which was understandable. The Querini Stampala had been an old palazzo, which was renovated by Carlo Scarpa in the early 1960s. It really is amazing and it also had a cafe, which convinced Marnie that it was well worth a visit.

Traffic outside the Fondazione
Scarpa liked a good stair.
The door is amazing itโ€™s made totally out of stone and detailed super well.
It has an amazing garden, we both really liked hanging out here.
The fountain is so good.
Us, hanging out.

Saint Markโ€™s Basilica

Do you like gold? This was one of the maddest and most magnificent churches we saw on our trip. Unfortunately the tragic part is the damage by past flooding is causing the marble to flake away and it also causes mosaics to delaminate.

Waiting outside the basilica.
The church is lined with mosaics some date to 800s.
Itโ€™s magnificent.

Gondola

We had been vacillating on the merits or otherwise of going on a gondola. They are a hugely expensive mode of transport, especially when you consider it in the New Zealand Peso. Conversely how often are you going to be Venice? And letโ€™s face itโ€™s part of the romance of the place. Itโ€™s a bit like going to the West Coast without the sandflies, itโ€™s just not quite the same without them. *I might have also had an ulterior motive as well, but I will discuss this a bit later.

Us on the Gondola.
Getting caught up in the traffic.
We went out onto the Grand canal and under the Rialto bridge.
Marnie looking quite stressed.

Caโ€™ dโ€™Oro

We saw the Caโ€™ dโ€™Oro while on the Grand Canal, I didnโ€™t think weโ€™d have to time to see it. Again another famous building.

Itโ€™s a Venetian Gothic styled palace and was built in 1430, itโ€™s now an Art Museum.
Up your game New World. Just your average supermarket, just with frescoes. We popped in to get some supplies on the way to our hotel after leaving the Caโ€™ dโ€™Oro.

Engagement

I asked Marnie if she would marry me that evening in a quiet square beside a canal in Venice.

This was perfect. Prior to this we headed to the restaurant we had been to the night before beside the canal. Unfortunately they couldnโ€™t take us until later. Marnie had mentioned that sheโ€™d like to go back to see the Hotel we had seen when we had arrived. This was perfect as it quiet, we were virtually the only people around.

She said yes!
Engaged us.

It was a great day!

* I had thought about asking on the gondola, but it turns out that theyโ€™re not super stable, and I also have a tremendous life skill of dropping things, so it just seemed like a less than ideal combination. Plus the square turned out to be way better.

Walked 16.1km / 23583 steps.

4 responses to “Venice – Day Twenty Seven”

  1. Been hanging out for this update! Talk about a mid-season cliff hanger! Huge congrats you too – awesome news! Also loving the blog Mark

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks G ๐Ÿ™ Iโ€˜m trying to get the blog done. Hope you guys are well

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  2. Sher Foley-Lovelock Avatar
    Sher Foley-Lovelock

    Hi Mark and Marnie,

    Congratulations! Helen told me about the engagement and I have been waiting patiently for the Venice post on your blog! So romantic! (We got engaged in the Tuileries Gardens in Paris so I am a very big fan of the grand European betrothal!)

    Mark, I have very much enjoyed your blog with the great photos, often wry observations and the architectural expertise! And your Mona Lisa experience made me laugh out loud!

    Best wishes to you both.

    Sher

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Sher ๐Ÿ˜€ we had a great time. Hope you guys are well

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